David's Second Visit

We arrived at Chania after an uneventful flight to find it overcast and 25°C and stopped for an Amstel and sausage roll at a rather spectacular Toplou Gorge in the White Mountains of Western Crete on the transfer from the airport to Paleochora. Several in the party spotted the rare Gryphon Vulture soaring above the mountains.

Paleochora was dull and overcast, there was no electricity because of the current storm and there was no warm water for showers. Our apartment (studio) was located in a residential area of the town next to the part derelict, honey-coloured 'Hotel Libykon' established in 1935. The Lithi Apartments ("rooms with citchen") were run by Alexia Zouridis whose neighbours keep chickens and noisy cockerels.

We sat on the terrace and watched the storm progress from grey clouds to a downpour which lasted about an hour. At last it was dry enough to venture into the town and our first stop was the "supermarket" to buy essential supplies. We had a look at the harbour and bought postcards + stamps and a phonecard. Later I showered in cold water, though Carol got hot. We ate supper on the pebble beach side taverna called 'Corali' - saganaki, olives, Greek salad, lamb with potatoes, swordfish and two Amstel. Then went shopping again for mosquito candles and some pretty raki glasses. We found tomorrow's meeting venue and then got lost trying to find our apartment. The streets here are lined with mulberry trees, the leaves are used for fodder and the denuded branches are used as sticks and kindling.

The following day we got up around 0830 after sleeping fitfully with the noisy fridge, but no mosquitoes only salt flies. The electricity was back on although the shower was still cold, but the sun was up and hot with a breeze in the trees. Very quiet area, just the usual domestic noises from the neighbours and locals. We went to the meeting and booked a Corsa for 48,000Dr for 5 days without a sunroof. Then we went off to the beach for some sun where we hired loungers and umbrella but the wind got up so we retired to 'Hotel Castello' above the sandy bay and nestling below the ruined Venetian fort. Two ice creams - strawberry, chocolate & banana with fresh fruit slices, cream & syrup, two Greek coffees and a Sprite.

We had dinner at Sava's Village Restaurant in the main street - tzatziki, saganaki, kalamari & pork, Greek salad and local wine. Not the greatest meal. Afterwards we walked up the street and Carol bought a Cretan fleece and two thimbles. Then to a café for kataifi and ice cream before using the phone in the OTE.

We dined at 'Caravella' part owned by an English girl who's been in the town for 9 years living with a Cretan - Carol had red snapper (boned at the table by the waiter), I had red peppers and tzatziki and a bottle of Logado. Two rakis and two semolina puds with the bill. Off to the main street for baklava, banana & pistachio ice cream, frappe and Archers & lemon juice.

We left Paleochora in our hired Hyundai at 0930 and arrived in Sisi about 1330. Chania was a nightmare, but once we found the Souda road and the E75, we sailed along at an average 80kph straight to the Sisi turn-off. George, Maria & the girls welcomed us and we sat and drank cool freshly squeezed orange juice before popping into Leather Creations to see Nikos and invite him up to the Pink Flamingo for drinks and kataifi later in the day. Had a look at the shops and found that some had closed down while others were newly opened. Back to the Pink Flamingo for dinner - ouzo and beer on George, followed by tzatziki, fried courgettes, swordfish, sole, Greek salad, Metaxa, port and coffee. Popped across the road to see Gregory and then returned to Leather Creations to see Nikos and stayed there until 1210. Back at the Pink Flamingo we gave impromptu English lessons to Maria, Alexandra & Katerina.

The following morning I was out with the video to film a beautiful white flower with a yellow middle and the scent of jasmine. In front of the greenhouses near the pomegranate tree was a pile of watermelons which George feeds his pig with. Hercules, Maria's father, was sitting in his room listening to the radio as two cats scuttled around in the sun. It's going to be a hot one I think and it's idyllic here. In the afternoon we took the car to Kera via Mohós, but took the wrong road and ended up in Gonies where we stopped at Ammos Pottery and purchased a beautiful jug. Eventually we arrived in Kera and met Stelios again. His mother came out and offered us chocolate and and biscuits before we negotiated the price for ten plates, a painted gourd, an ashtray and another jug. While we were travelling to Kera we spotted a 'bone-crusher' flying high above the rocky landscape. Back in the car we backtracked to a village with a 2,000 year old plane tree and spring. Stopped a took pictures and video footage. Back on the road again, we headed for Malia and stoped on the way to film goats wandering around on the rocks. Their bells tinkled in the warm breeze and we stayed for a while listening to their 'music'. Then on to Milatos where we had coffee, lemonade and coke at Sokrates on the seafront. Walked round the point and paddled in the warm surf. Purchased a hat and t-shirt for Nick before heading back to Sisi and the Pink Flamingo. We were introduced to George & Maria's friends, Mikhail and Poppy, customs officers from Heraklion, who have a house round the corner. Their twelve year old daughter plays with Alexandra & Katerina. They set up a little shop selling 'souvenirs' at the roadside and Carol & I purchased a pretty coloured shell for 100Dr! Let Maria test drive the Hyundai round the village as she's been trying to get a new car out of George for ages. Mikhail reckoned they cost about 2½ million drachmas in Greece.

The next morning was overcast and we awoke to find a cat in the apartment. We drove to Elounda where we saw Samos, but missed Nikos & Eddy at Mam's House. We parked at the harbour and strolled, window-shopped and stopped for a snack halfway up the hill - coffee, Sprite, cheese pie and cheese/ham pie. After Carol had done some shopping we set off to Aghios Nikolaos where we parked opposite the fire station. I bought a book on wild flowers and Carol bought some salted nuts from the man near the bridge. Then it was off again to Sisi via Elounda, Epano Elounda, Epano Pines, Fourni, Kastelli, Nikithianos and Neapolis. Thunderclouds are massing and fork lightning lit up the gloom as we drove. Sat with Nikos and watched the rain bouncing.

Back at the Pink Flamingo we had lunch - fried baby marrow, tuna salad, tomato/cucumber salad, orange juice and iced coffee. The rain brought George more customers. After lunch we went to see the pig and Hercules picked me two pomegranates. Looked in at the chickens which are not laying at the moment so George has to buy extra eggs.

We awoke the following morning to find that the mosquitoes have been busy in the night. It's cloudy towards the north, but clear in the south. Breakfasted on tea & toast with George & Maria. Then into the car with Maria and the girls. We're off to Jumbo, like Toys R Us, in Heraklion to buy the girls new school stuff. Maria bought them exercise books, pens & backpacks. Then head for the centre of the town and parked beneath the walls of the fortress. Walked into town and bought oregano and saffron. Passed a butcher's shop which displayed rabbit complete with fluffy ears. Apparently this is done so that you can be sure it's rabbit and not cat!

Up at 9.30am and packed the car before breakfast - tea & toast on George. and as we said our tearful goodbyes, George gave us 1½ litres of his gorgeous olive oil. The journey was smooth until we reached Tavronitis just past Maleme. Between Rethymnon and Chania we took the Vrises road to look at George's birthplace in Armeni. Then onwards through Koulkouthiana, Voukolies, Kakopetros, Mesavilia and Floria where we stopped. Here is an impressive memorial to the men of a German mountain division. On to Kandanos (razed by the Germans during the occupation), Vlithias, Kalamos and finally Paleochora but not before we saw eagles in the mountains.

We booked booked a trip to Elafonissi and one on a dolphin-spotting cruise, but the dolphin cruise was disaappointing. We only saw a bit of a whale, several flying fish and a Greek naval launch before we returned to Paleochora.

Breakfasted on bread and cakes before going down to the beach. We ended up in the nudist section, all flobby bottoms and worse! Found a couple of loungers and an umbrella near a snack bar and had an early night. Up at 7.00am, though the cockerels woke us earlier and made our way to Sabine Travel for 9.00am. Where we boarded the coach for Aghia Sofia where we were shown a cave full of stalagmites and stalactites and a small chapel. It involved long climb up steep steps in a gorge which was magnificent. On the way to the stop we saw impressive stands of strawberry trees, avocado, apples, oranges, pears, grapes, plane trees, mulberry, cypress , hawthorn and carob. Then on to Elos, the centre of chestnut production in the area and the proud owner of a fragment of Roman aqueduct. We stopped for about twenty minutes to use the toilets, have coffee, orange juice and doughnuts and video the monument across the road and a donkey. Our guide was a little disjointed in his talk, but we learned about the Christianization of Crete and some of the more unusual plants that could be seen as we careered along the steep roads of this mountainous part of south west Crete. Thence to the Chryssokalitissas Monastery. Inhabited by a solitary monk and nun. A beautifully quiet place with dramatic views of the coast, but sadly run down. And finally we made it to Elafonissi. What a splendid place! Lots of beds, brollies and knee-deep warm water fringed by pink sand. We waded over to an island where set out our towels and swam in the clear pale blue water. We saw seagulls and other sorts of birds looking for edible morsels at the water's edge, beautiful flowers including a variety of milk-white lily and a species of horribly spikey grass. We stayed until 1530 and then it was back to Paleochora by smelly, chugging ferry.

I explored the remains of the Venetian fortress. The fortress is nothing but a flat area looking out to see with the odd wall and foundations of rooms. Found a small corroded brass spike about 35mm long, a cartridge case and a piece of twisted metal. Inspected the gun emplacement overlooking the town on the left hand side of the fortress that was hanging precariously over the edge of a cliff.
We took the dolphin cruise again, but again no luck except flying fish, a pelican, bee cans and some other highly reflective object. We where woken at 5.00am by mosquitoes and had a cup of tea and read before going back to sleep and waking again around 7.30am and sitting on terrace to read my new book. Off to bakery around 0930 to buy bread and cherry tarts. After breakfast, we booked another dolphin cruise. Around 1700 we went on our third dolphin cruise and this time were in luck! It wasn't long before the look-out shouted and we all headed for the railings to see a sleek pale grey dolphins slicing through the water. We stayed, engine off, for ages watching these beautiful creatures playing happily. Back to shore contented and off to our favourite café for a drink before supper. Got chatting to a couple of Americans from Boston, she was born on Naxos while he was pure-bred American.

On our last day we were up at 8.00am to sun, no clouds, but the usual plague of flies. On the way to find breakfast at Alaloom we decided to take the bus to Chania. The journey was uneventful and on arrival we headed for the harbour to see the Mosque of the Janissaries. We also looked at the lighthouse and strolled around the cafés. Headed into the alleys in the old town to find drinks - orange and a frappé with ice cream. Found Leather Alley and a nice shop selling linen. Bought a tablecloth and four napkins. We had drinks at the Ciao - coffee, fresh orange and baklava before heading back to the bus station. Saw a magnificent church, the Turkish Baths, the Ministry of Culture and some fine statues of Cretan and Greek heroes. Caught the 1700 bus back to Paleochora, photographed the church just outside Kandanos.
Back in Paleochora we went to the Corali for our last supper - tomato, lettuce, onion, pepper and olive salad with 'chicken in the oven', red snapper, water and Mythos. Back to our favourite haunt where Michaelis, the owner, greeted us and wished us a safe return journey. Swapped addresses with our American friends, said goodbye to the supermarket owner.
Another holiday over, time to prepare for Easter.