David's Millenium Visit

Having been invited to stay with Nikos in his apartment overlooking Sisi, we left dreary London at 14°C and arrived at Heraklion on 25th April to be met by Manolis, the Sisi taxi driver. Nikos was there to greet us with his broad smile and his tanned features. "Kalimera David, kalimera Carol. Welcome to my apartment". We unloaded the cases and followed him into the basement apartment. Inside the door was a reasonably sized kitchenette with storage in the corner and a table and two chairs. On the table was a large bowl of oranges. A shower room with loo was next to the single double room with a large bed and more storage. Outside was a sun terrace with a table and chairs. Nikos' accommodation was up some steps to the left of the building and consisted of a large lounge, kitchen, shower room/toilet and a bedroom. Outside was a broad terrace affording grand views of Sisi, the headland around which Milatos nestles and of course the Pink Flamingo. The apartment's owner had the top floor, but he rarely visited and so it was shuttered and locked. Three cats and some kittens mewed in the sunshine. We unpacked and joined him upstairs for a welcome cuppa. We were introduced to Nikos' sister Stella, her husband Pavlo and their two sons, Alexander (11) and Michael (6½). They help Nikos out with the shops as he's been let down again by his staff. We give Nikos his gift, a fancy cigarette lighter, only to learn that he's given up the weed!

Everybody is fasting at the moment, though Nikos' friend has a taverna which is open and the 'supermarkets' are too. The Pink Flamingo is still closed, but in the village there is a new bakery selling freshly made cakes, biscuits, kataifi, baklava and scrumptious sweet cheese pies. Spring has definitely arrived, the roadsides are awash with colour as wild flowers make the most of the rain. Prickly pear stands like the one in George's garden are budding and the carob trees are hung with soft green beans. We pop into the village and buy six kataifi and some sweet cheese pies nd then spent the day chilling out.

Up the next day at 7.30am to sit on the terrace for a cup of tea. Dressed and went down to the Pink Flamingo with presents for the family. Had a couple of cups of tea and juice with George, Maria, Katerina and Alexandra before heading into Sisi to find some breakfast. Popped into the new bakery and the supermarket for essential supplies before going to see Nikos. It's breezy, but warm today. Bought a book to read and then looked in on Maria at her apartment. Invited in for coffee and spinach puffs while she did her ironing. She introduced us to some friends from Athens and then we headed back to the apartment. Before we left Maria showed me a strange fruit in the garden. It turned out to be a loquat. Before we could escape once again George diverted us into the Pink Flamingo bar for Metaxa and beer. He opens tomorrow and was sorting out the provisions and furnishings. Before we left we booked our summer holiday in one of his apartments (1st August). An hour later we arrived at our apartment and had our kataifis and more drinks. Pavlo joined us and we chatted for hours until after midnight when we retired with an extra blanket as its starting to get colder.

This morning Nikos went to Malia to buy some spits for the lamb. He's got a cold, but puts on a brave face. He offers to lend us his car later in the day. It's bright and warmish with dark clouds straddling the horizon. The cats aren't bothered by the weather as long as they're fed and the tumble around on the terrace. It's very quiet here, only the sound of bleating goats and the twittering of birds. We find breakfast in the Cactus Pub overlooking the harbour. It's cold so we wear our fleeces. A full English breakfast sets us up for the day and costs 3,500Dr. Off to Nikos' shop to borrow the car and we drive to Malia to window-shop. Bought some thyme honey and looked around a bit more before heading back to Sisi via Milatos. Strolled along the front and took some photos. Back in Sisi we returned the car and looked in on Dimitri at Sisi Jewellery. Bought a new chain for Carol and enquired about a rather nice ring. Bought two more books and some Papastratos cigarettes (500Dr for 20). Wandered back to the Pink Flamingo for a supper of swordfish & chips, Greek salad, beef stifadho and ½ litre of sweet red wine followed by a delicious Greek coffee, all for 5,000Dr. Chatted with George and Maria before heading back to the apartment with a bottle of wine. Phoned Lesley and Nick and then watched TV in Nikos' apartment while we waited for him and Pavlo Stella had cook bean soup which we ate with fresh bread and wine. Watched the news which spoke of an earthquake in Greece. It later transpired that Nikos' sister had experienced this, but was OK.

Good Friday began with a rainstorm while we ate our breakfast in the village. Then we bought Carol some new shoes at Leather Creations and a new embroidered cloth for the coffee table at home. Down to the harbour for coffee and orange juice. Watched the village officials hoisting new flags behind Paradise Cove for the coming season. Back to Pink Flamingo for coffee and juice and a discussion on the merits of baklava before popping into the supermarket for more essentials - toilet rolls, shower gel, crisps and chocolate wafer biscuits. Changed £100 (55,793DR) before heading back to apartment. While Carol sat on the terrace I climbed the hill behind the apartment and found and photographed an orchid. Great views of Sisi from up there. Back for coffee and a snooze before going up to Nikos' souvenir shop. Spoke briefly to Stella and then back to the Pink Flamingo to see what's happening. Watched the Easter Mass from Athens cathedral. Watched till 2200 with a carafe of wine and talked with George while Maria took the girls to church. Maria returned with a group of customers and we all sat and had more drinks, bread, olives and George's superb oil. Hercules had a lemonade with us and we talked till late. George gave us a lift to the apartment and lent us a heater as it's now really cold. As he drops us off he invited us back for lunch on Easter Sunday which is difficult as we are also Nikos' guests! Somehow the question of a chicken curry and scones arises. I agree to make one for George in August and Carol will demonstrate scone-making! When we got back to England we sent a parcel containing coconut milk, scone cutters, strawberry jam, marmalade and recipe books.

Saturday was brighter with a light breeze. Much clattering about upstairs as things are being prepared for tomorrow's festivities. The cats are excited too as they think of fresh roast lamb scraps. Stella and Pavlo return their hire car and Nikos goes to his shop by motorbike. We go for breakfast at the Pink Flamingo and are invited back to lunch later. Into Sisi to get some presents for our neighbours, then drinks at Abari before we head back for lunch - broad beans, boiled eggs, chickpea paste with oil and onion, tomatoes with parsley, bread and Retsina. We lunch with Katerina's godmother and her family who are visiting from Athens. After lunch I picked loquats with help from Hercules and Maria washes them for tomorrow, but we get to try a couple. Nikos arrived and George invited him to lunch tomorrow. After lunch we head back to Nikos' apartment to watch Stella preparing the lamb offal and lettuce for tonight's soup. We piled into Nikos car and head for the monastery at Selinari about 2330. As we leave Sisi the sound of firecrackers shatters the stillness of the night. Hundreds of people are there, attired in their suits and best frocks. The children carry decorative candles. We enter the monastery to see the priest chanting and to watch the children receive the 'light of the world'. A procession of children accompanied by their parents leave the monastery and head for home, candles still alight in their cars! The monastery chapel is beautifully decorated with typical naive Cretan frescoes. The people there form a long line to kiss icons of the Virgin Mary and Saint George. The road outside the monastery is crammed with all manner of cars, trucks, buses and other vehicles. The police arrive, but not to take charge, but merely to visit the monastery and pay their respects. Pavlo, Stella, Alexander and Michael collect their flame and we all head back to Sisi to bless the shops and the apartment with smokey crosses. Others go and watch the burning of the image of Judas Iscariot. We all head back for the offal soup with lettuce, eggs and lemon. We are all given red-painted hard-boiled eggs and play a sort of conker game with them. I win, my eggs cracks all the others and I am blessed with good luck for the coming year. Hanging in the apartment is a lamb carcass complete with head and testicles! We drink beer and share Cretan cheese, bread and olives as we talk till 0200. Nikos prepares his spits for tomorrow - one for the lamb, another for the liver, kidneys and intestines. We wearily retire, but inspect the fridge full of beer and soda first.

Easter Sunday greets us with soaring temperatures. It's brilliant outside, the sun is hot and the breeze has died away. From out vantage point on the hill we can see families preparing their spits and plumes of smoke erupt all over the village as fires are lit and the great roasting begins. Nikos has got the boys clearing the car park next to the apartment so that the fire can be laid. A chair is placed under an umbrella so the spit-turners aren't having to sit in the sun. We walk down to see George & Maria and arrive to find Hercules attending to the BBQ and a goat being sewn up by George and Katerina's godmother's husband. Maria offers us Easter biscuits and we sit and chat with her and her friends over a drink. On the way down the owner of the Kelinari supermarket gives Carol a red rose and some Easter biscuits. Back to the apartment with a litre of wine and then I help turning the spit, lubricated with numerous cans of beer! The lamb's testicles have mysteriously vanished and Nikos is the prime suspect. The lamb is basted with a mix of olive oil, herbs, salt, pepper and lemon juice. As it cooks the skin turns a beautiful shade of brown and the aroma makes our mouths water. Beside the lamb on a second spit is the lamb offal wrapped in its intestines also being basted. People start arriving Nikos' landlord and his family come with bags and boxes of prepared foods, salads, bottles and all manner of stuff. The terrace now has a long table on it piled with food. Also at the party is Ellen, an English girl married to a Cretan who works in a bar in Malia. The lamb is done and carved up by Nikos and we all ate meat and salad, potatoes cooked in olive oil and herbs, washed down with copious amounts of beer and wine. Having eaten we made our excuses and head for the Pink Flamingo where George greeted us and sat us at the top of his table either side of him. The table was set under an arbour in the garden and was similarly piled with good things to eat. The children sat on an adjoining table. Their friends were tucking into fresh goat and salads, potatoes, more wine and every conceivable part of the beast was eaten - brains, tongue, eyes....... After lunch Carol and the women cleared away the dishes while us men sat and had ice cream, fruit, raki and coffee! A great day had been had and we staggered back to the apartment where all was quiet and tidied away. The cats were fat and sleeping. The back to the Pink Flamingo to watch TV, have more drinks and listen to the fireworks and bangers being let off all over the village.

Monday was cooler than yesterday, but the sea was flat calm. Breakfasted at the Pink Flamingo before going into Sisi. Last minute shopping in the village - baklava (fifteen of them!), oil, raki and we visited Zorba's for some more presents for friends. sat around till late and then visited Nikos in his shop to help pricing and arranging his stock. Dinner at the Pink Flamingo with Nikos, Pavlo, Stella, the children. Bed by 1130. Te following morning we were up around 0730, packed, dressed and out. Said our goodbyes to Pavlo and Stella before the taxi came to take us to the airport. Our flight was delayed for two hours and so we were offered free sandwiches and drinks by Olympic Airways. Bought our duty free - 400 Regal King Size for 14,000Dr and 200 Papastratos for 5,000Dr. Another holiday over, we got ready for August 2000.

Four months after Easter we were off again to the island we have fallen in love with.
We arrived in Heraklion on 2nd August at 0145 to be met by Manolis, the taxi man, and his heavily pregnant Dutch wife, Irma. She drove us back to Sisi and to the door of our Pink Flamingo apartment. George had left the outside light on, Fantas in the fridge, cheese and ham rolls and a bowl of oranges on the table. As we unpacked, Carol ate everything except the fruit and then we sat on the terrace and listened to the stillness, only interrupted by the waves crashing on the beach. The next morning George & Maria and the girls greeted us with hugs and kisses before we settled down to a breakfast of tea and apple cakes. Gave George his curry powder, can opener and a home movie. Hercules greeted us and remarked upon my new hair colour (red).

He then went off to the laundry with some tablecloths while we popped in on Gregory Apostolidis to get some excursion details. We changed £500 (266,000Dr) and paid George for the apartment (180,000Dr) before going to see Nikos, Pavlo, Stella and the boys at Nikos' shop. He, Nikos, invited us up to his apartment around 2330 for rabbit stifadho. Carol bought a t-shirt and we went to the new bakery for three sweet cheese pies and one apple pie. Walked round the village to catch up on events. People were swimming off Manos Beach, though the sea beyond the mole was choppy the harbour itself was flat calm. Bought some postcards and stamps. Anthoula's Corner is open and looks inviting. Bought 200 Regal (7,000Dr) and 200 Papastratos (5,000Dr), toilet rolls, water and orange juice at the Knossos Supermarket opposite the Pink Flamingo. Booked trips to Crissi Island for Saturday (6,000Dr each plus 3,500 each for the boat trip) plus two other excursions, one to Elafonissi and the other to Rethymnon.

Lunched at the Pink Flamingo on souvlaki, orange juice, ouzo, coke and Greek coffee for the princely sum of 10,000Dr. During lunch the veg man called and we bought some yellow melons (2½ Kg for 500Dr) and Maria bought tomatoes and salad stuff for the restaurant. Went back to our apartment via the MariGianna pool. The water was nice and warm. Later that afternoon she felt better and we went to the Pink Flamingo for coffee, cake, ice cream and wine. Then Carol lounged and I swam in the MariGianna pool for a while before going back to our apartment. Carol got a touch of the runs in the afternoon and I called Nikos to say thank you, but the evening's rabbit stifadho was off. Feeling better, we had supper at the Restaurant Miramare on the harbour. It is owned by a Greek man and his Scottish girlfriend. We met Tom who works for them, a handyman from Middlesborough who delivered and installed George's playground equipment. We had tzatiki, cheese saganaki, stifadho and butterbeans in sauce with a half carafe of local red wine for 7,500Dr. Because George was so busy that evening we helped clearing tables and Carol took orders and helped explain the menu to customers. At last to bed after a long day.

Up at 0915, the crickets are really loud this year, it may be something to do with the 28°C+ heat. The wind has dropped and the weather forecast is good. Cretan TV reports that there are serious forest fires around Viannos and that the Greek Prime Minister is holidaying in Elounda. This evening we met Margaret Yeates (Director of Manhattan Products in Birmingham) and her great-granddaughter Laura. She, Margaret, gave me her card and we exchanged email addresses. I told her all about the Cretan website - Interkriti - and the e-magazine - Stigmes. She said she'd look out for them on her return home. Up till late with George & Maria and their family and friends. That night Carol didn't sleep too well as it's extremely hot, so we sat on the terrace at about 0300 to cool off.

At this point my diary ends and restarts on 12th August. We visited Chania, Rethymnon, Moni Arkadi, Moni Toplou, Ierapetra, Chrissi Island and the Chryssoskalítissa Monastery. It's well worth going on organised excursions and I would recommend Mevis Cars for details. On the 12th August George showed us how to make kleftiko in his kitchen . I noted the details and when we tried it at home it was excellent. The following day we were up by 0700 because we'd been invited by George & Maria to go with them to Vrahasi to visit their olive groves. We climbed in his battered car and wound our way up steep roads. The scenery was stunning, deep green tree-clad mountains intersected by rocky gorges, blue sky and a warm breeze. We stopped and walked a few metres and there were his trees, young olives amid the silvery-green leaves. We picked fresh walnuts, pears and blackberries. Also growing nearby were pomegranates and peaches. Next stop Maria's mother's grave in the family vault in a tranquil cemetery in the hills. While George and Maria tended her grave, Carol and I wandered around admiring the other vaults. It was so tidy, so well kept, unlike a lot of English cemeteries. All done we got back in the car and were driven to see Maria's parents' house in a village nearby. It was only a hovel, now occupied by chickens, but it had spectacular views as it sat on the crest of a hill overlooking a valley. The now overgrown garden contained rambling fig and plum trees whose branches were weighed down with plump, luscious-tasting fruits.

Back to the Pink Flamingo for breakfast, via the bakery in the village, for tea and apple cakes. Hercules joined us later for his morning coffee and a cigarette or two. The rest of the day we spent here chatting and watching TV. The next day we were planning to go into Neapolis because there was a three-day festival going on. We thought about hiring a car for the afternoon, but George offered us his and in the end we didn't go as Carol felt unwell. Today we learned that Manolis and Irma have had a baby girl and we were invited up to their apartment to see the new arrival. We were given sweets and offered drinks in celebration. Up during the night concerned that I'd messed up our return flights, checked the next morning with Gregory and all's OK. Today is Maria's Name Day. Breakfasted on tea and apple cakes. Talked with Maria's friends who'd bought her a bracelet with a big blue stone. Booked out taxi with Manolis and then went into the village to say our goodbyes to Nikos and his band. Back to Pink Flamingo to find it awash with Greeks eating kleftiko.