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David's Favourite Places
In no particular order : Sisi...
With an out of season population of just over 300, this rather
sprawling village was the first Cretan resort we went to back in 1995.
Over the yearswe have made good friends there and would recommend it
to anyone looking for a quiet, peaceful base for a holiday exploring
the northeast of the island. Only 40 minutes from Heraklion airport,
it is handy for Malia to the west and Milatos Neapolis Elounda
and Aghios Nikolaos to the east. There are numerous tavernas, bars,
shops and car/bike hire shops, souvenir shops and supermarkets. The
pretty harbour is surrounded by tavernas and bars offering Cretan,
Greek and English dishes. Just to the east is the almost untouched
Milatos.
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Milatos... The seafront is fairly featureless except for a small, but impressive marina. There are a couple of shops and bars and a good number of properties for sale. Thankfully it's not too developed, but there will soon be a coastal road linking it to Sisi, so only time will tell if it loses it's charm or not. Behind the village in the
hills is the Milatos Cave, a poignant reminder of the Turkish occupation of the island in the early 19th Century. Inside there is a small chapel and an ossuary. It's rather damp, but offers cool relief in midsummer.
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Neapolis...
Birthplace of Philargos (Pope Alexander V). It's basically a farming
town and an administrative centre of eastern Crete. The square is
dominated by the brightly refurbished modern church which contains
stunning metalwork and frescoes. It's peaceful here, though a road
runs through the middle of it. There is a good cafe overlooking the
square where you can sit and people watch.
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Elounda... A pleasant seaside town that sprawls inland. The front has a
nice harbour and boat owners here offer trips to Spinalonga island,
the old leper colony built inside the walls of the once magnificent
Venetian fortress. A trip to the island is to be recommended, but
remember to take water with you as there is none to be had on this
sun baked rock. Elounda has numerous apartment complexes, a good range
of tavernas and bars and friendly locals. We made friends with the
owners of Samaria, Ellas and Mam's House. |
Dorries... This one horse village consists of a main street and a single
taverna run by the grey bearded Nicholas. We came upon it quite by
chance when we were driving from Elounda back to Neapolis. We took a
right turn and stopped when I spotted a donkey tethered to a tree.
As we stroked the animal a man appeared waving at us. It was Nicholas
and he was trying to get us to pop into his tiny taverna
Xenos for a drink. Half a dozen empty tables, the walls lined with
postcards, business cards and photographs including one of him taken
many years ago. In the corner was a mass of Retsina and on the
windowsill a pile of magazines and maps. We stayed for coffee, soft
drinks and fruit, tried his honey and several glasses of raki.
Whenever we go back to Crete I try and fit in a visit to see
Nicholas, if only to buy some of that delicious local honey.
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Paleochora... It's not really in the category of one of my favourite
places, but I thought I'd include it because it's unusual. Sticking
out into the Libyan Sea, the town straddles the promontory with
mountains behind you and the azure sea in front, it feels as if you
are nicely trapped. The Venetian fortress, built in 1282, no longer
remains. The views of the town and the surrounding mountains is well
the climb up though. Venizlos Street is the main thoroughfare and
during the day is crowded with people and cars.
At night it is closed and the cafe owners vie for space to place
their tables and chairs out. Coloured lights illuminate the tables
and it was nice to sit there people watching while having a drink
or eating your supper. For a package deal destination it's excellent,
but the transfer from Chania can be tedious at over two hours over
the impressive White Mountains.
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Elafonisi Island... South from the Chrissoskalitisa Monastery lies a
dreamy beach of pink tinged sand, warm water and some unusually
exotic flora. Elafonisi Island in high season is a nightmare of crowded
tourist buses churning up the dust on the rough track that leads down
to the water. If you can visit before the season really picks up, then
it can be paradise. The water is knee deep, crystal clear and so warm
that you could stay in it all day. There is a beach bar if you get
thirsty or hungry, but it's probably cheaper to take your own stuff
along and have a picnic. Growing on the island offshore you are bound
to come across the pure white Sea Lily ( Pancratium maritimum ).
Another of those tourist places, but this time one for the naturalist
as well as the sun worshipper. The endangered indigenous Cretan Palm
( Phoenix theophrasti ) thrives here among the tourist litter. Short
and squat, they form shady clumps above the bright, hot sand of the
beach once used to film Bounty ads. If you can bear the bump and grind,
the coach park with its officious little man with his whistle and the
bikini clad, bronzed young things strolling by, then visit this crazy
place.
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