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David's Favourite Places

In no particular order :
Sisi...
With an out of season population of just over 300, this rather sprawling village was the first Cretan resort we went to back in 1995. Over the yearswe have made good friends there and would recommend it to anyone looking for a quiet, peaceful base for a holiday exploring the northeast of the island. Only 40 minutes from Heraklion airport, it is handy for Malia to the west and Milatos Neapolis Elounda and Aghios Nikolaos to the east. There are numerous tavernas, bars, shops and car/bike hire shops, souvenir shops and supermarkets. The pretty harbour is surrounded by tavernas and bars offering Cretan, Greek and English dishes. Just to the east is the almost untouched Milatos.

Milatos...
The seafront is fairly featureless except for a small, but impressive marina. There are a couple of shops and bars and a good number of properties for sale. Thankfully it's not too developed, but there will soon be a coastal road linking it to Sisi, so only time will tell if it loses it's charm or not. Behind the village in the hills is the Milatos Cave, a poignant reminder of the Turkish occupation of the island in the early 19th Century. Inside there is a small chapel and an ossuary. It's rather damp, but offers cool relief in midsummer.

Neapolis...
Birthplace of Philargos (Pope Alexander V). It's basically a farming town and an administrative centre of eastern Crete. The square is dominated by the brightly refurbished modern church which contains stunning metalwork and frescoes. It's peaceful here, though a road runs through the middle of it. There is a good cafe overlooking the square where you can sit and people watch.

Elounda...
A pleasant seaside town that sprawls inland. The front has a nice harbour and boat owners here offer trips to Spinalonga island, the old leper colony built inside the walls of the once magnificent Venetian fortress. A trip to the island is to be recommended, but remember to take water with you as there is none to be had on this sun baked rock. Elounda has numerous apartment complexes, a good range of tavernas and bars and friendly locals. We made friends with the owners of Samaria, Ellas and Mam's House.
Dorries...
This one horse village consists of a main street and a single taverna run by the grey bearded Nicholas. We came upon it quite by chance when we were driving from Elounda back to Neapolis. We took a right turn and stopped when I spotted a donkey tethered to a tree. As we stroked the animal a man appeared waving at us. It was Nicholas and he was trying to get us to pop into his tiny taverna Xenos for a drink. Half a dozen empty tables, the walls lined with postcards, business cards and photographs including one of him taken many years ago. In the corner was a mass of Retsina and on the windowsill a pile of magazines and maps. We stayed for coffee, soft drinks and fruit, tried his honey and several glasses of raki. Whenever we go back to Crete I try and fit in a visit to see Nicholas, if only to buy some of that delicious local honey.

Paleochora...
It's not really in the category of one of my favourite places, but I thought I'd include it because it's unusual. Sticking out into the Libyan Sea, the town straddles the promontory with mountains behind you and the azure sea in front, it feels as if you are nicely trapped. The Venetian fortress, built in 1282, no longer remains. The views of the town and the surrounding mountains is well the climb up though. Venizlos Street is the main thoroughfare and during the day is crowded with people and cars. At night it is closed and the cafe owners vie for space to place their tables and chairs out. Coloured lights illuminate the tables and it was nice to sit there people watching while having a drink or eating your supper. For a package deal destination it's excellent, but the transfer from Chania can be tedious at over two hours over the impressive White Mountains.

Elafonisi Island...
South from the Chrissoskalitisa Monastery lies a dreamy beach of pink tinged sand, warm water and some unusually exotic flora. Elafonisi Island in high season is a nightmare of crowded tourist buses churning up the dust on the rough track that leads down to the water. If you can visit before the season really picks up, then it can be paradise. The water is knee deep, crystal clear and so warm that you could stay in it all day. There is a beach bar if you get thirsty or hungry, but it's probably cheaper to take your own stuff along and have a picnic. Growing on the island offshore you are bound to come across the pure white Sea Lily ( Pancratium maritimum ). Another of those tourist places, but this time one for the naturalist as well as the sun worshipper. The endangered indigenous Cretan Palm ( Phoenix theophrasti ) thrives here among the tourist litter. Short and squat, they form shady clumps above the bright, hot sand of the beach once used to film Bounty ads. If you can bear the bump and grind, the coach park with its officious little man with his whistle and the bikini clad, bronzed young things strolling by, then visit this crazy place.

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