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Ron's First Visit
It was in 1989 that my fiance and I took our first holiday together to the
Greek island of Crete. It was one of those cheap and cheerful, last minute
affairs, we had booked, packed and got on the plane, all we knew was that
we had a pension ( a room with a bathroom ) in a town called Aghios Nikolaos.
But it turned out to be the holiday of a lifetime with memories that will
be with us for the rest of our lives.
We arrived at 5.30am after a 'night flight' from Manchester and were booked
into the Meningakis Apartments, where we collapsed into bed immediately.
At 8.00am I woke up, excited at the prospect of discovering a new place,
Janice slumbered on whilst I went out exploring our holiday home for the next 7 days.
We had been told that our holiday Reps had prepared a 'Welcome Meeting' at the Hermes Hotel
at 10.00am. I wanted to attend to find out more about what Crete had to offer and we set off
for the meeting at about 9.30am.
The Cretan's were having a heatwave and we had only walked about 300 yards when we had to
stop for a drink ( that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it ). It was then that we discovered
the 'Cretan walk'. At home we generally walk quite fast, but in this heat, it was exhausting.
As we sat sippping our drinks, we watched the Cretans sauntering along without a bead of sweat on their brows.
We adpoted this gait and use it when in Crete, finding it very comfortable indeed.
At the 'Welcome Meeting' we booked for two trips, one full days on a boat to Spinalonga and
the other a full day toiuring on a bus.
When the meeting was over we walked down to the harbour and then explored the numerous shops, tavernas,
restaurants, sites etc. until tiredness overcame us and we returned to our room for a siesta.
After a few hours relaxation, we dressed and wandered down into the harbour again, which, at this time of night
was bustling with people out for the night. On my early morning exploration, I had noticed a taverna
only 25 yards up the road from our room, so I thought it advisable to eat and have a few drinks there ( not far to fall
into bed I thought ).
Climbing the stairs to the Taverna Delina we found it rather full, but we were greeted by a Cretan gentleman ( Georgios or George )
wearing an apron. He said "Good evening" and explained that the taverna was full but we could join his other customers
seated on the patio.
We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and I could not have planned such a romantic setting. Our candlelit table
looked out at the moon shimmering on the waters of the Bay of Mirabello. And, thinking that no one was watching,
I slipped a small box containing an engagement ring across the table....Big Mistake !!!
Within minutes everyone in the taverna was congratulating us on our engagement ( Nikki, the owners wife, had seen me hand over the ring ).
Well, the drinks flowed, the dancing went on until 2.00am, we had a great night and the rest, as they say, is history.
OUR FIRST EXCURSION
Our first trip was on a boat called 'Vassalis' and we sailed at 10.30am from the harbour with a Rep to give us points of interest on the 'voyage'.
We sailed over the sunken city of Olous, passed a pirate's cave, visited Spinalonga, which until 1953 was a leper colony and then moored in Elounda
for a three course lunch with wine, which was all included in the price. Our group then had two hours to explore the litle village of Elounda before we set sail again.
On the way home, we stopped in a little cove with beautiful turquoise water. Those brave enough or mad enough jumped over the side for a quick swim, YES, I was one of them.
The water was so warm and clear, it was just like taking a cool bath. The Vassalis moored back in the harbour of Aghios Nikolaos at about 7.30pm that evening. This had been a good
trip, well worth the meagre sum of £11.00 per ticket.
On the boat we had met a lovely couple from Glasogw called Simon and Mary. We chatted for most of the trip and sat together for lunch. It seemed only right that we should dine
together that night and we met on the harbour bridge and chose a restaurant just out of the harbour, over looking the Kitraplatia Beach.
We sat at a 'waters edge table' and threw small pieces of bread to feed the thousands of little fish that we could see in the water below us. The company was good and the seafood was so fresh
that when I think about it, I can still taste it after all these years.
The following day was spent on the Municpal Beach, which is just a short walk from the Bus Station.
It cost about 45p to enter and we found that the pebble beach was only a
few yards wide, but there were lawned areas all round the Snack Bar.
There were also toilets, showers and changing rooms for the coy. We sunbathed all day, then ate,
drank and made merry at the Delina again that night.
OUR SECOND EXCURSION
Our next trip started at 8.30am, we were picked up by bus just outside our rooms
and whisked off to an archaeological site called Gournia, where our
courier for the day explained all about the site and we took a few photographs of things of interest.
The bus then drove to the other side of the island and a place called Ierapetra, where we had
breakfast and a few hours to explore. Janice and I walked along the sandy beach
and paddled in the Libyan Sea.
On the bus once again, we travelled the scenic route through the mountains and
back across the island to the fishing port of Sitia. Here we ate lunch
in one of the many tavernas that are situated along the harbour. Again the seafood
was delicious.
Back onboard the bus we climbed up to the Monastery of Toplou and our courier asked those
that wished to enter the Monastery to dress accordingly. The bus was air conditioned and
everyone was comfortable wearing shorts, so you can imagine how hot we felt when we dressed in trousers, skirts etc.
Much to eveyones relief, the bus stopped outside the Monastery and we piled off. No one though
was expecting the heat that seared down at us and there was a mad dash for the shade. It was
120ºF and the Monks were walking about wearing thick habits and large hats without a bead of
sweat on any of them.
There were some beautifully painted religious icons in the Monastery and it was well worth the visit.
Our last port of call was the beach at Vai, where the first 'Bounty' advert. The journey down through the palm forest
wsa lovely and the beach itself was clean, but very, very warm. If you didn't walk on the boardwalk, you risked
burning the soles of your feet because the sand was so hot.
After a few hours sunbathing it was time to leave for home, but we did stop fro refreshments at
a taverna along the coast road back to Aghios Nikolaos, with it's stunning views and sheer drops.
This was a good trip to see the eastern end of the island, but it was a very tiring day.
The remainder of our holiday was spent either on the beach or wandering through the streets of Aghios Nikolaos.
We ate dinner mostly in the Taverna Delina where, after the food had been served'
Nikki showed us a Cretan dance and invited a few ladies to join her. Then came what everyone calls 'Zorba's dance'.
We all piled onto the dance floor, linked hands and were led round and round by one of the local lads. This
was followed by all manner of music, pop, disco, old time. Nikki had a good selection which she used to create
a party atmosphere in the Delina every night. No one was spared, she would pull you away from your table using
a tie, an arm or an ear and whisk you to the other side of the taverna to dance with someone's wife.
Then she'd bring the husband back to dance with your wife. What a woman, she was the life and sole of the Delina
and is still my favourite lady on the whole of Crete.
Stting here writing about Crete rings back so many happy memories, like Vangelis, the old Cretan who was
a real hit with the young ladies and George the Veg as we christened him ( because there are so many Georges on
the island and he had a Fruit & Veg business ), who loved to teach me Greek phrases and would laugh when I
pronounced them wrong. Then there's friends like Betty, Derek & Dorothy, who are sadly no longer with us,
but visited Crete year after year for their holidays.
Then I think of all the nationalities that would come to the Delina for a good night out. I once danced with a beautiful German lady,
who couldn't speak a word of English, whist Janice danced with her husband who could speak 6 languages.
Not forgetting friends like Nancy & Eric who we see most years on their own pilgrimage to Crete. I have met
people who have been to Crete and hated ever minute of it, saying that it's full of discos and pubs, but we have never
had any problems with that and have found that if you want it noisy you can, and if you want it quiet you can have that too.
I can honestly say that after all the visits to Crete, I am still finding new places
to explore. Of course we have our favourite places, like our trek up the winding mountain road with it's bare rock only to drop over the edge
into the lush agricutural land of the Lassithi Plateau. Where we make our yearly pilgrimage to eat at the family run Milos Taverna just outside the village of Psychro
and once again get taken round the kitchen to choose our meal straight from the oven.
A wonderful experience.
OR.... the pretty village of Kritsa, which has been used as the backdrop for many films set in Greece. Now becoming slightly commercialised but still
ousing Cretan charm. And the beach at Vai is a long drive, but well worth the effort. I could go on and on about the island
of Crete but will not.
The only way to get the 'Cretan experience' is to visit Crete and find it for yourself.
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